Before applying, please read:
1. We require that your dog have access to a private fenced yard that is preferably 6ft in height.
You will be able to see my contract before committing to a puppy, and we can discuss it point by point. I am happy to work with newcomers to the breed!
- Salukis require regular free running to develop properly and they are too high energy to not have access to running especially when they're young. Not all Salukis have the temperament to play with strange dogs especially as they reach adulthood. I have done the dog park thing with Salukis and I do not recommend it. Salukis are generally not reliable off leash dogs without extensive training, and even then, it is only safe to do so miles away from the danger of cars. Salukis were bred to run miles away from their owners in pursuit of prey; this trait is still present in virtually all Salukis.
- There are a few exceptions here or there who work well as service dogs, but the majority of Salukis have too much of a "what's in it for me attitude" or they are too environmentally sensitive to work reliably in public. I choose not to set my dogs up for failure and I do not sell them with the intention of being service dog prospects.
- I do not condone backyard breeding, and all breeding needs to be done conscientiously with the breed's future in mind. Most Salukis do not need to be bred.
- I don't co-own with the intention of trying to interfere with your day-to-day life with your new Saluki. Co-ownerships are done strictly for two reasons. The first reason being to only allow breeding after my criteria are met. That criteria includes a championship (AKC Bench, AKC or ASFA lure coursing, or NOFCA/NACA Open field CC/CM are all acceptable) as well as breed appropriate health testing following the OFA CHIC scheme. The second reason is so that the dog is not transferred to someone else without my knowledge or consent.
- I think it's important that the future owner of the puppy come and see where the puppies are raised, and I would prefer to meet buyers in person. The APHIS ruling a few years ago also affects small hobby breeders and prevents us from using flight services.
- There are multiple reasons for this, but I run bloodwork on puppies at their 8 week checkup to make sure everyone is healthy to the best of my ability. There is some processing time for results, and a delayed pick up allows changes to be made if something comes up at the 8 week checkup. Pickup at 10 weeks also gives me enough time to evaluate them properly.
- Puppies are so expensive to produce ethically. I could not charge less and afford to have litters. Between proving their parents on the field and in the ring and health testing breeding stock, we are thousands in the red before a litter is even conceived. Updated information changes regularly with inflation, but please research "the cost of reputably breeding a litter" if concerned about the price. I keep my costs to the average price of my peers -- those who are breeding with breed preservation in mind -- not backyard breeders.
- Color is not something that I consider when making placements. I can usually tell you what colors a particular litter will produce, but I can't promise that you will get the color you want. Color makes no difference in the quality of the Saluki. I try my best to match the sex preference of the inquirer though mother nature doesn't always agree with my puppy list.
- Regular, controlled socialization is really important for this breed. I don't care if your puppy learns to sit or not in the class, but I do care that they are getting out into the world and are around strange dogs and people because it makes a world of difference what it done with them in those first few formative months. Salukis have a tendency to be neophobic, and I recommend that everything you want to do with your adult Saluki, you expose them to regularly as a puppy. After a full puppy class course, you are free to choose what you want to do training-wise. Note: Socialization does not mean throwing them in a free-for-all and allowing every strange dog or person to interact with them!
- During those first few months is when puppies are likely to do something silly (and expensive). They are also more vulnerable to disease as youngsters, and you have just made a big purchase by investing in your puppy and all of those initial supplies, classes, etc. After 6 months, you may choose to drop the insurance if you wish.
You will be able to see my contract before committing to a puppy, and we can discuss it point by point. I am happy to work with newcomers to the breed!